Cele tohle ma na svedomi docela obycejna konzerva marockych sardinek, kterou jsem drzel v ruce jeste kdesi na pobrezi v jednom marketu. Otacel jsem ji a rikal si, vzit ji nebo ne. Cena byla na zdejsi pomery skvela, loupl jsem ji tedy do kosiku.
O nekolik dnu pozdeji, tricet kilometru ve vnitrozemi na rece Strymon, koncil se pomalu den, slunce se sklanelo za vetve vrby, pod kterou jsem sedel a chystal se k drobne veceri. Obkrocmo jsem se jako obvykle posadil na prid kajaku, nakrajel chleb, rajce, otevrel sardinky a vycko jsem odlozil vedle do travy. Par vterin na to mi tenhle kousek plechu, ostry jako britva, zajel hluboko do chodidla. V rychlosti jsem zvazoval varianty, jak v tu chvili postupovat. Nejblizsi vesnice se nachazela dvacet kilometru dolu po proudu a kolem reky vyprahle plane, pastviny, blato po ustupujici jarni vode. Jelikoz den predtim jsem se ve velkem uklidu, ke kteremu se jeste vratim, zbavil krome plata paralenu i lekarnicky, ovazal jsem ranu trickem i kalhotama od kamaradky Zuzky, ktere jsem mel dva dny predtim poprve na sobe (sorry Zuz, ale v tu danou chvili poslouzily luxusne, diky za ne)) Kdesi v zadu jsem zaslechl zvuk traktoru a vydal se pres pastvinu tim smerem. Ze vsech moznych stinu se postupne vyrojila pocetna smecka velkych hlidacich psu, proklestil jsem si cestu mezi nima k ohrade a zavolal na chlapika pracujiciho vzadu u stada krav. Priklopytal muz s nohama do O jakoby sam od malicka na jedne z krav jezdil. Potrebuji doktora , povidam mu a sedl jsem do travy a ukazal mu ranu. Zachmuril se, ukazal pazi pres step na vzdalene kopce s par strechama a rika doktor, a mazej. Ukazal jsem na auto pred statkem, na nej, vyndal jsem penezenku. Seber se a pakuj, mohla priblizne znit jeho odpoved v rectine. Tak jsem pakoval. Na brehu u lodi jsem si jeste vse jednou ujasnil a pres zavan peripetii s odtazenim kajaku zpatky na reku se vydal dolu po proudu. Bylo mi jasne, ze do vsi dopluji za tmy nekdy kolem pulnoci. Padloval jsem se zrakem uprenym na prid jako zavodnik a jen sem tam jsem prehledl krajinu okolo reky a uvedomil si, jak je Strymon pri zapadu slunce prekrasny.
Na brehu postaval Doktor ze serie nezapomenutelnych komedii Navrat do budoucnosti. Sedy balonak ke kotnikum, na hlave starou kozenou motorkarskou kuklu, letecke bryle pres oci. Mracna komaru. Prilepil jsem kajak k jilovemu brehu kousek vedle nej a vyskrabal se nahoru. Stary pan, pres sedmdesat let, nakapal mi do rany tekutinu z lekarnicky jeho stare dodge, chvili jeste chmurne postaval u svych civek s vlasci. Dal jsem mu dvacet euro na benzin a vyjeli jsme. Dobrou polovinu casu z hodinu a pul trvajici cesty do nemocnice zabral prujezd ruzne se klikaticimi a krizujicimi prasnymi cestami mezi rozlehlymi pastvinami. S nezapomenutelnou zastavkou u bankomatu jsme okolo triadvacate hodiny dorazili do spitalu.
Cely cas, co jsem lezel v ordinaci, premyslel jsem a doufal, ze stary pan neodjede a pocka venku na mne, jak jsme se i pres peripetie se vzajemnou domluvou dokazali dohodnout. I pres snahu, zapamatovat si vztycne body na ceste od reky, neumim si predstavit, jakym zpusobem a kdy bych lod nasel. Injekce tetanu byla jedina polozka, kterou jsem za skvelou praci personalu platil. Vyklopital jsem na dvur a rozhledl se. Starik sedel u stolu s doktorem u kavy. Kdyz jsme pak drncali s tou starou rachotinou zpatky a stary pan s oblicejem prilepenym na celnim skle, popijeje oba pivo z plechovky, bylo mi jako v road movie z americkych preriii, z odlehlych mist, kraju osobitych lidi a pratelstvi jednoho k druhemu. Z mist, kde dosud v srcich lidi neznamena slovo svoboda jen prazdny pojem, ale je soucasti jejich zivotu. Bylo mi nadherne. A tak jsme sedeli vedle sebe, ukazatel tachometru se klepal kolem padesatky, svetlomety mlhave klouzaly po cestach a prach vyril kolem. On mluvil o koze a ja mu odpovidal o voze. Ale nikomu to nevadilo. Na ocich mu slo vycist radost a pozdvizeni z necekane situace, ktera se mu nenadale vpletla do vsedniho dne a ja byl uklidnen, ze noha bude v poradku. Uzivali jsme si oba pritomnou chvili. Vysadil mne u kajaku, postavil jsem stan a vlezl do nej. Nekdy kolem druhe se na mne prisli podivat dva pastevci. Druhy den rano jsem se spustil na proudu do vesnice a tri dny zabiral kousek mista ve stinu jedine vrby siroko daleko. A kamaradil jsem se s mistnima, z nichz nejvic mi k srdci prirostl Nasko, bulharsky cikan pasouci okolo dediny dvousetclenne stado ovecek. Jeho pokozka byla vyprahla sluncem jako zdejsi zeme, ale oci hrali dosud mladim a dobrotou. Ale o tom az nekdy..
Jsem znovu na ceste, druhy den se pomaloucku posunuju proti toku Strymu, ricce velikosti nasi Moravy, se spoustou ryb, krabu, nutrii, ostruvku, s meandry a mnoha kamennymi naspy a jezy. Kam dale ma cesta povede, neni presne znamo, doufam snad jen, ze k srdcim dalsich lidi..
Z Peponie zdravi kapitan Korkoran
Pro mě článek, za který by se nemusel stydět Hayerdahl.
Usmívám se od ucha k uchu, když čtu tolikrát potvrzenou zkušenost, že když něco dlouho nepotřebuješ a vyhodíš to, tak to potřebuješ hned druhý den. Jenže jinudy cesta stejně nevede, balastu se člověk musí zbavit, jinak ho zavalí. Stejně si nakonec nějak poradí, jako ty v tomto případě a pak zjistí že všechno zlé bývá i k něčemu dobré.
Myslím na tebe vlku.
Karel
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